Just plug it in. It just works. I can’t believe it. Somebody wake me up… or wait, don’t. My debian box is ‘just working’!
Still, I’m watching songbird’s development closely and eagerly….
Pintos is a minimal operating system for x86 hardware used primarily for instructional purposes (eg.). QEMU is an open-source hardware emulator typically used for operating system development. Debian is a linux operating system, regular style.
Step #1 – Debian: Drop windows and install debian (or go dual-boot).
Step #2 – QEMU:
sudo apt-get install qemu
To test everything is working as it should at this point, you can download a small linux kernel image here (Sec: disk images). Then:
bzip2 -d linux-0.2.img.bz2 qemu linux-0.2.img
You are now running a minimal linux system on emulated x86 hardware, which is in turn running on a full-featured linux system (debian) on real (probably also x86) hardware. Press ctrl-alt to get out of the minimal linux system if you get stuck with it stealing all your keystrokes.
Step #3 – Pintos:
- 3.A – Download pintos.
- 3.B – Fix pintos to default to QEMU (rather than bochs) by applying the following diff:
Index: threads/Make.vars ======================================= @@ -4,4 +4,5 @@ -SIMULATOR = --bochs +#SIMULATOR = --bochs +SIMULATOR = --qemu Index: utils/pintos ======================================= @@ -85,7 +85,7 @@ - $sim = "bochs" if !defined $sim; + $sim = "qemu" if !defined $sim; @@ -107,8 +107,8 @@ - --bochs (default) Use Bochs as simulator - --qemu Use QEMU as simulator + --qemu (default) Use QEMU as simulator + --bochs Use Bochs as simulator
- 3.C – Compile pintos:
cd threads/ make
- 3.D – Run a test app with pintos:
cd threads/build/ ../../utils/pintos run alarm-multiple
- 3.E – You may wish to throw pintos in your default path (some of the scripts provided require it’s there). There are many ways to do this, this is my favorite:
sudo ln -s `pwd`/utils/pintos /usr/local/bin/
And that’s it! In step 3.D you finished up by running a little test app that created 5 threads that slept for varying predefined periods of time with some messaging to the console, thus testing pintos’ scheduling/threading abilities. You’re now ready to augment and enhance pintos… coffee anyone?
Fun times figuring this out…. AFAIK, this will work for the whole HP Photosmart 2570 series. I’ve got a Photosmart 2575.
First, set up your Photosmart 2575 to print over the network. This is (relatively) simple… install the debian package hplip, then use the gnome Applications->System Tools->Printers GUI to go from there. Or… use the cmd line to get there.
A default debian lenny installation with the joy that is OpenOffice will come with xsane installed. Applications->Graphics->Xsane. Try it… it will fail to find your HP Photosmart.
You have issue #2. To fix this, you need your printer’s IP address, which there are several ways to get. One way: navigate your favorite browser to http://localhost:631 to access your CUPS admin page (creepy, huh? your laptop is running a http server? surprise!). Find your Photosmart 2570 series printer under ‘Manage Printers’, its IP address will be listed there.
Now, using a terminal, run xsane with the following argument:
xsane hpaio:/net/Photosmart_2570_series?ip=xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx
Where xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx is the IP address of your Photosmart 2570 series printer on your local network. Xsane should be able to find your HP Photosmart now. Enjoy….!
Just don’t f-ing do it. Especially if you’re gonna sell me your car.
That’s the aftermath of the screwdriver method. The screwdriver method:
- Hammer screwdriver into oil filter. (Hot) oil will drain/spurt out on you.
- Using screwdriver for leverage, twist oil filter as far as space allows (‘91 Acura Integra: ~1/16 turn).
- Cuss and grunt, repeat.
Couch surfing happens to all of us. You’ve got a week or two, and nowhere to stay. Now what if you’ve got a month or two? Well… ask your buddy if you can live in his/her storage space.
I just spent the last two months killing time between a job and a school, so I crashed in my buddy’s ( b – u – d – d – y ) storage space. Here’s my set up, with all the essentials (sleep, clothes, music, internet):
A few thoughts of wisdom to those considering or just beginning their own personal Storage Space Journey….
- Hot Dog Style
This is like step zero in cold-weather couch surfing. You are much warmer on a couch with blankets both below and above you. So when you make your bed and put you blankets out, think ‘bun’. Then when you get into bed, think ‘hot dog’.
- Let There Be Light
If it’s easy, knock out some wall and put in a ‘window’. It gets depressing if you have no light. If you see other holes in the wall, fill them with something or you may get small stray animals joining you at night looking for a ‘warm’ place.
- Water Flows (Gushes) Downhill
If the weather goes bad, you’ve got to be prepared. Remember that water will flow downhill, and pool under your stuff. Assuming you don’t anticipate more than 2″ of running water, just put all your furniture on 2×4s. Remember to keep electronics off the floor! Internets and water don’t play well together.
And… when your Storage Space Journey is complete, make sure to pay homage to your buddy.
Generally this is a Very Bad Thing:
That’s water/coolant boiling away off your engine. Usually this is due to a busted hose… or you didn’t put the cap back on your radiator… or your radiator is 16 years old and finally sprung a leak! In the last case, the steam will be much less dramatic, and you should be able to drive home by just pulling over every 5 miles or so and re-filling your radiator. Straight water is fine here… don’t worry about the ideal 50-50 coolant-water mix.
So I didn’t document this whole process as well as I would have liked. But here’s the start. One Acura Integra 91′ GS 1.8L 5MT:
Before you start replacing your radiator, verify the leaking fluid is really coming from your radiator. This can be done by wiping everything down, filling your radiator back up, starting the engine and letting it idle, and figuring out where the drips/spurts/gushing rapids is/are coming from.
Next step… take your old radiator out to get a good look at it. Here’s where you start:
Here’s where you finish:
Most everything you need to un-fasten to get the radiator out is right there in front of you on top. To get the radiator out, here is what worked for me:
- Undo everything you can see that obviously attaches to or holds the radiator in place (two hoses, some electrical on the left fan, mounting braces on each side or the radiator and one mounting/pipe brace)
- Struggle clumsily with radiator trying to pull it out. Grunt. Wipe grease on pants, forehead. Realize you need to remove the fans first.
- Remove the left fan. This involves removing two more mounting bolts, and squeezing the fan out past the pipes & tubing.
- Remove the right fan. This has two more mounting bolts, then some electrical deep down the right hand corner. This is the crux of the whole operation. You need to remove some wiring from it’s bracing clamp thinger. Here’s a shot of the evil wire clamps all opened up.
The small black clamp opens by sticking a flathead or knife in that little slot and then prying up. The bigger white clamp can be opened with some finger prying. If you don’t have small hands and thin arms here you’re going to have recruit your local preteen to help you out here. It’s a tight squeeze.
- There’s one more hose at the bottom of the radiator you can get to now (this one goes radiator -> engine block). Undo it. If you have an automatic transmission, I think there’ll be two more small hoses down here to undo, but with your 5MT, that’s it.
- Physically lift your leaky radiator out of the engine compartment. Who’s your daddy now??
Now, if you want to fix your leaky radiator rather than buy a new one, keep in mind that whatever patch you implement will have to withstand high temperatures and pressures. And potholes. Basically, it’s generally not worth it, especially since if (and by ‘if’ I mean ‘when’) you mess it up you’ll have to spend another day doing this all over again. Sooooo…. take your old radiator:
And throw it in the landfill, where it will sit and slowly decompose over the next couple hundred years. And buy a new one! I searched all around and found one as cheap as $102.48, but shipping was going to take a few days and cost another $20 bucks. I need my car now, not in a few days! To the rescue: radiator.com! These guys rock. Call them. They not only matched the lowest price I had found elsewhere, they had my radiator ready for local pickup within the hour. When I picked it up, the price tag said $179.99. I was out the door with tax for $111. Yee haa. My new baby:
Before you throw the new radiator in, realize that they make one radiator for both manual and automatic transmissions. If you have a manual, you don’t need the little intake/outflow nipples for the transmission cooling system at the bottom of the radiator. Go to Kragen and get a hose and some clamps, and connect the two nipples. While you’re there pick up some more coolant.
Installing the new radiator is pretty much exactly removal in reverse, except harder. But you’ve already had one practice time. Don’t get frustrated, be one with your radiator. Love thy radiator, and thy radiator thou lovest back.
Now that your new radiator’s all in and connected, add in 50-50 coolant-water mix until the radiator is full. Leave the cap off, start the engine. There should be some bulbing. Some coolant may spill over, don’t worry, your dog and/or baby will clean that up for you. Anyway, the level should drop as air that was trapped in the engine and radiator finds it’s way up to the top. Add more coolant and water. After a few minutes of this, the bubbles will stop. Keep an eye on the engine temperature as you do this…. it should be fine, but still.
And that’s it! Pop the radiator cap back on, take it for a spin around the block, make sure everything’s cool, then take it for a little jaunt out on the freeway. Bask in the glory that is a well-cooled 1.8L 5MT running silky smooth.